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Extension of oneself, business card for the attention of others, perfume can also be a real driver of well-being. And if our new coach, we had it in the skin?

Choosing your first perfume, alone, without parental prescription, is not an anecdotal act. Emancipating oneself from the smell of the mother, catapulting the heritage, opting for singularization is the culmination of an introspection whose "climax" mode generally occurs in adolescence, among other mutations of which photo albums are the hateful witnesses.

When you are a teenager, wearing perfume is not a question of words, of notes, it is more of an intuitive experience, at the crossroads of taste and the promise chanted by advertising campaigns. Growing up, fragrances help sculpt personalities, becoming spokespersons for ambitions and very intimate changes. Understanding your sensoriality is ten years of shrink gained.

And you, how do you choose your perfume? Our perfume, this invisible ambassador? For Lilou Fogli, 36, actress and co-founder of Château Berger cosmetics, perfumes are above all a source of well-being: "There are the perfumes that we wear, but also those that remind us of the people we like. Coming across the scent of a baby perfume like Biolane takes me back to the first days of motherhood. If I breathe in the perfume of my other half, L’Homme de Guerlain, on someone, I will immediately feel reassured.” Anna, 39, is an architect and already has a full olfactory CV. “Lulled as a child by the chypre notes of Aromatics Elixir from my mother, I then always wore perfumes that were said to be “not my age”: Trésor by Lancôme at 14, N°5 by Chanel at 25. When my daughter was born, I opted for La Petite Robe Noire, the first perfume that really suited me. I think my past choices gave me the confidence I lacked at the time. Jérémie, 46, prefers man juices, woody leather notes, Indian vetiver, cedar. Antiques dealer, she wears these materials reminiscent of beautiful things, echoing her predominantly masculine professional sphere. “At 17, I borrowed Fahrenheit from Dior from my high school sweethearts. I then wore Égoïste by Chanel and then Galion 222, a mixed eau, reissue from the 1930s, oscillating between cashmere wood, white musk and sandalwood. I am turning more and more towards rare, so-called niche perfumes. I think that my profession and my choice of fragrances are in line”. As for Odette, 69, a few years ago she abandoned Shalimar, to whom she had been faithful all her life, for Fatale Pink by Agent Provocateur “I was first seduced by its bottle enhanced with a cabochon. Then by its old, floral notes, pear, yuzu, camellia. It reminds me of the rich fabrics of the time when I was a costume designer at the Opera. It's a real perfume of youth for me and it gives me wings."

The secret gesture of perfume A juice to seduce pschitté in the hollow of the blow, a mist to seal the belonging to a tribe, a trail to deceive the age or drive those around you crazy... thank you Suskind! What if reality was not so far removed from friction? In its 2017 study entitled “The Codex of Gestures”, the distribution and packaging company Aptar Beauty + Home, highlights the silent repertoire of uses, these perfuming gestures capable of translating characters. "Be bored"? Dive into happiness. The smellfie? To smell his wrist imbued would symbolize the worship of his own smell, the ego and the smells surely. The choice of a perfume and the way in which it is appropriated are never disconnected from instinct, and for good reason. To breathe a smell is first of all to solicit your limbic system, epicenter of emotions, and generator of pleasure or refusal. At the same time, the olfactory memory comes into play. Lavender is a one-way ticket to childhood pleasures, tranquility and therefore a precious ally for making a pact with Morpheus. Obviously, all the art of a nose lies in this ability to smell time and souls to better encapsulate them.

The pros tell us their secrets “When I create a perfume, I address the intimate side of my clients,” explains Jacques Cavallier, Louis Vuitton master perfumer. My role is to chisel a spine without however omitting the dualities of man... In the fragrance Matière Noire, for example, dark oud wood rubs shoulders with the freshness of cyclamen, this is what creates this binary juice. Then there is of course the magic of the proportions which will sublimate the woman who wears the fragrance. I often describe myself as a doctor of souls.” Andrea Maack is an Icelandic artist whose work is at the crossroads of fashion and art, as evidenced by her Instagram to die for. To bring out his first line of perfumes, the process was different. “Because as an artist, I start with drawings and I focus on a feeling, the ingredients only come afterwards. This is what makes my fragrances so personal and each in their own way tell a different story capable of boosting the confidence of the wearer.” In short, pure happiness.

“Aromacology”: these perfumes that reassure Some perfumes are an immediate passport to well-being. The gourmet and fruity notes are those of memory, childhood and idleness. There's nothing like marshmallow, candy apple or dragee accords (Réminiscence, Lolita Lempicka) to have the impression of biting into a Proust Madeleine. With its notes of pear, tangerine and bitter almond, Girl of Now, the new Elie Saab, is an addictive pistachio macaroon, a real happiness therapy pschiit. White musks, present for example in La Fille de l'air Iris, the new Courreges, evoke more sensuality, virginity, the smell of skin (naturally provided with musks) and clean, for a real feeling of warmth. and protection. Just like those smells inscribed in the collective unconscious: who has never been transported with happiness by inhaling the cream of the little blue box Nivea, the trail of an Elnett hair spray, even a Cleopatra schoolyard?


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